I Didn't Think That Wave Was Going

Surfing Is My Religion, If I Have One.

Not To Sound Too Deep Or Weird, But I Think That The Times When You Really Appreciate Surfing Are The Times You're Really Sort Of Becoming One With Nature. Surfing's As Raw Of A Sport As It Gets.

Maintaining Marriage Seems To Be Tougher Than Fatherhood: Apparently Its The Most Difficult Thing In The World.

A Wave Isn't Like A Skate Ramp Or Mountain; Everything's Moving Around, And You Have To Time How To Move Along With It. That's Easier With A Slow Wave.

I've Always Thought Surfing Is A Reflection Of Who You Are.