Surfing Is My Religion, If I Have

I Didn't Think That Wave Was Going To Offer A Ton, ... But The Wave Just Held Form, And I Was Able To Get A Lot Out Of It.

Maintaining Marriage Seems To Be Tougher Than Fatherhood: Apparently Its The Most Difficult Thing In The World.

To Receive A 10-point Ride Is A Blessing In Itself, But To Have It Honored By Giving To Those Who Could Use A Little Support To Accomplish The Things They Want To Do In Life Is A Bigger Blessing. The School Is Something I Believe Hugely In. They Provide A Special Place For Kids To Understand Things That Many People Avoid Or Never Learn To Deal With Their Whole Lives.

A Wave Isn't Like A Skate Ramp Or Mountain; Everything's Moving Around, And You Have To Time How To Move Along With It. That's Easier With A Slow Wave.

Not To Sound Too Deep Or Weird, But I Assume That The Occasions Once You Pretty Take Pleasure In Surfing Are The Occasions You Are Extremely Kind Of Getting A Single With Nature.